"Black Sea's Red-Hued Treasure": The Rising Value of Turkish Salmon

"Black Sea's Red-Hued Treasure": The Rising Value of Turkish Salmon

Shining Success in Turkish 'Turkish Salmon'​

Hear it straight from Polifish's general manager, Denizer: "Boom! Our exports skyrocketed from a measly half-million in 2017 to a whopping $86 million last year, and this is merely the tip of the iceberg." That's right, we're talking about "Turkish salmon," one of the Black Sea's main productions!

A decade ago, it was just a baby step, but today, the export of farm-raised trout—almost exclusively for export—has exploded, keeping pace with the global salmon craze, despite criticism over the intensive aquaculture process.

Last year, more than 78,000 tonnes of trout—78,000 TONNES!—were harvested from the chilly Black Sea waters of Turkey, representing a 16-fold increase from 2018. This haul totaled almost $498 million in profit for the producers, with ambitious plans in store for even more. However, it's still a long shot from the $12.8 billion reeled in by Norwegian salmon and trout titans in the same year.

So who's buying all this "Turkish salmon"? Russia snaps up 74.1% of it, followed by Vietnam (6.0%) and then Belarus, Germany, and Japan. It's worth noting that Russia, with its 2014 ban on Norwegian salmon due to sanctions over Crimea, has become a crucial market for Turkey.

Stale Knudsen, an anthropologist at Norway's Bergen University and a specialist on Black Sea fishing, observes that the proliferation of trout farming can be attributed to the accessibility of the Russian market. According to him, Turkey's success can also be attributed to experience and technology in farming sea bass and sea bream, areas in which Turkey excels in Europe, in addition to its numerous reservoirs and the ideal water temperature for trout in the Black Sea.

And let's not forget, "Our salmon is around 15 to 20 percent cheaper than Norwegian salmon," points out Ismail Kobya, deputy general manager of Akerko, one of the sector's heavyweights. "Even though it's a different species, our clients in Japan and Russia swear by our 'salmon' for its delightful taste, vivid color, and premium-quality flesh," Kobya asserts while showcasing Akerko's headquarters, fluttering with the flags of Turkey, Russia, and Japan.

At the heart of the operation lies a bustling team of a hundred or so employees, decked out in long blue waterproofs, green headgear, and rubber boots, processing trout certified by the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) for responsible farming practices.

But all's not well in this seemingly thriving industry. Each year, there have been warnings about disease challenges, with the mortality rate of trout stocks approaching a disconcerting 50 percent, primarily in reservoirs. disease risks

Nevertheless, leading firms like Polifish and Akerko maintain that they've made significant progress in disease management. "With our Black Sea cages, the mortality rate is currently under five percent, but farming is a risky business, and you just never know," says Kobya.

Controversy also surrounds the impact that trout farming has on local fishermen, who claim that the big, 50-meter-diameter cages set up in their fishing zones obstruct the movement of fish and push them away, resulting in depleted fish stocks and eventual collapse of fishing industries.

And so, the "Turkish salmon" delicacy, once a fledgling player, has carved out a niche for itself on the global stage, cashing in on consumer demand for salmon and offering a competitive alternative. But the road ahead is not without challenges, mounting questions about sustainability, and the ghost of controversy lurking beneath the waves. © 2025 AFP

1. The successful export of 'Turkish salmon' has fueled a cultural exchange, as the delicious and affordable product is popular not only in traditional markets like Russia, but also in Vietnam, Belarus, Germany, and Japan.
2. The thriving 'Turkish salmon' industry is a testament to Turkey's advancements in technology and finance, with several leading firms utilizing innovative aquaculture practices to ensure responsible farming and high-quality produce.
3. The lifestyle and food-and-drink scene in many countries has been influenced by the success of 'Turkish salmon', as consumers embrace the top-tier taste, vibrant color, and lower price point compared to Norwegian salmon. However, the challenges of disease management and potential impacts on local fishers continue to be a focus of concern for both producers and regulators.

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