Reliving the Glory Days of the 1980s

Reliving the Glory Days of the 1980s

From Rags to Designer Drapes: A Journey Through Indian Fashion Journalism's Rich Tapestry

embarked on a career in fashion journalism over three decades ago, when the notion of wearing designer clothes was relegated to the back pages of newspapers. With no dedicated magazines or social media, the only way to remain in the fashion loop was through pure content and cutting-edge design innovations.

As a literature enthusiast, I fueled my passion for reading by buying old issues of international fashion magazines such as Cosmopolitan, Harper's Bazaar, and L'Officiel. The Indian Vogue edited by Franca Sozzani was my absolute favorite. I was eager to follow the global fashion scene and bring those trends to an Indian audience.

In the late '90s, began the fashion revolution in India, sparked by the rise of coffee culture in the country. The opening of establishments like Barista and Café Coffee Day made these warm, chatty spaces the perfect gathering spots for folks to exchange ideas, including insights on the latest fashion happenings.

Initially considered irrelevant, the value of Indian fashion was underappreciated. However, the visionaries of the industry worked tirelessly to change this perspective, and today the Indian craftsmanship is celebrated worldwide – with the bridal sector accounting for a staggering $50 billion market share!

My journey as a fashion journalist took a progressive turn in the new millennium, as fashion weeks were introduced in India. The Taj Palace hotel, which played host to this groundbreaking event, welcomed a small group of journalists who covered the event featuring 30 designers showcasing their work. Today, the event is a megawatt extravaganza, attracting over 100 designers, 600 guests, and a flurry of influencers, event managers, musicians, and makeup artists!

The fashion industry in India experienced a unique coming-together during those early days. Models like Bipasha Basu, Mehr Jesia, Madhu Sapru, Milind Soman, and others set the stage at fashion weeks, where a mix of elegant ensembles and budding movie careers came together. The ramp became a platform for aspirants to be noticed and launch their Hollywood dreams.

At that time, one united fashion week was held, fostering interesting conversations and serving as a launching pad for fashion pioneers like Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, Suneet Varma, J J Valaya, Raghavendra Rathore, and Ritu Beri. Plus, the only store garnering significant attention was "Signature" in Hauz Khas Village, run by Bindiya Judge.

Simultaneously, advances in technology facilitated connections via smartphones, which soon became indispensable tools for communication. The popularity of smartphones revolutionized the fashion industry, breaking down geographical barriers and setting the stage for a global market.

A new generation of designers studied at prestigious fashion schools like FIT, Central Saint Martins, and London College of Fashion, learning the intricacies of pattern cutting, silhouettes, draping, and styling. This knowledge allowed them to create ensembles that transcended traditional Indian clothing, offering structures and silhouettes for nights out and blending Indian craftsmanship with universal styles.

By the late 1990s, designers were traveling abroad to study fashion and later returning to set up studios in India. This exposure to international fashion trends positively impacted the Indian fashion industry, making it a sourcing hub for embroideries, techniques, and embellishments. Top designers like Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad rely on Indian craftspeople for embroidered pieces.

Fast forward to the present day, and Indian fashion designers like Rahul Mishra, Vaishali S, and earlier, Manish Arora, have broken into the coveted haute couture space, gracing international runways.

From its humble beginnings to its current position as a powerful force in the global fashion industry, fashion journalism has witnessed remarkable growth in India. Beginning with traditional print media, it has evolved to encompass digital platforms, influencers, and social media, playing a decisive role in the nation's increasing influence on the global fashion scene.

1. In the 1990s, I began my career in fashion journalism, delving into international magazines like Cosmopolitan, Harper's Bazaar, and L'Officiel to stay updated on global fashion trends.
2. Barista and Café Coffee Day's advent spurred a change in India, transforming these warm, social spaces into breeding grounds for fashion discourse and trend sharing.
3. At first, Indian fashion was overlooked, but visionaries worked diligently to alter that perception, eventually leading to global recognition, with the bridal sector commanding a $50 billion market share.
4. As the new millennium approached, India introduced fashion weeks, which have grown exponentially, attracting over 100 designers and countless influencers.
5. Early fashion weeks featured models like Bipasha Basu, Mehr Jesia, Madhu Sapru, Milind Soman, and others, setting the stage for aspiring talent and Hollywood careers.
6. Pioneering designers such as Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, Suneet Varma, J J Valaya, Raghavendra Rathore, and Ritu Beri rose to prominence during this period, with Bindiya Judge's Signature store gaining significant attention.
7. Simultaneously, new communication platforms like smartphones emerged, erasing geographical barriers and paving the way for a global fashion market.
8. Today, designers study at renowned institutions like FIT, Central Saint Martins, and London College of Fashion, blending Indian craftsmanship with international styles and techniques, forcing open the doors of haute couture for Indian design powerhouses like Rahul Mishra, Vaishali S, and Manish Arora.

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